Dig a wide, shallow hole the same depth as the root ball and at least twice as wide as the root ball. Score or scratch the sides of the of hole to enable the roots to penetrate and grow into the existing soil. The root ball should rest on undisturbed soil to prevent settling.
Remove the root ball from the container. Avoid handling the plant by the trunk, lift it by the root ball or wire basket. EASE the root ball into the hole gently so as not to break the soil around the roots. Balled and burlapped (B&B) trees need to be centered in the hole, the twine cut and removed, and the burlap cut half way down and removed from the top of the root ball. Wire baskets should be cut with a hacksaw or wire cutters half way down or bent back so no wire sticks up above soil level; leave the bottom of the wire basket on the root ball. Remove any strings or tags tied around the trunk or branches.
If using MYKE brand mycorrhizae, spread the appropriate amount of MYKE over the rootball. DO NOT BREAK THE ROOTBALL. The MYKE must be in direct contact with the roots OR the outer surface of the rootball. Plants in fiber pots that are not fully rooted in may be left in the pot. Trim the rim of the fiber pot off below the soil level. Mix some MYKE around the inside edge of the fiber pot and place the rest of the MYKE in the soil immediately next to the outside of the pot. Further instructions are given in the MYKE planting guide.
Mix soil ammendment with the soil that has been removed from the hole. Mix approximately 20-30% mulch to 70-80% existing soil.
- For Clay soils, use Soil Building Compost, Soil Pep, or Nutrimulch
- For Sandy soils use, Peat Moss, Soil Building Compost, Soil Pep, or Nutrimulch
Backfill the hole half way with the soil mix. Apply water and the Root Starter mixture to completely saturate the root ball and the soil mix. Use a garden hose to deep soak the hole so that all air pockets are eliminated. Finish filling the hole with soil mix. Soil should slope gently away from the trunk, with the top of the original soil ball visible after planting. The first woody roots at the top of the soil ball should be just barely covered with soil. Build up a rim of soil at the edge of the root ball to direct water to the roots. This rim of soil should be raked away after one year. Mulch, such as bark, may be placed around the plant. Do not allow any of the mulch to touch the trunk or to bury any of the lower branches.
Deep soak by turning on a hose to a slow trickle and place the nozzle within the basin until the soil is completely saturated. Soak time will vary according to the size of the root ball.
Sprinkler water is not enough for newly installed trees and shrubs. Large caliper trees need 20-45 minutes of deep soaking 2-3 times per week, depending on weather and temperature, for the first three months. Deep soak once a week, in addition to sprinkler watering, for the rest of the first growing season. Drought tolerant plants may be able to survive without weekly soakings after the first month or two. Deep soak trees and shrubs twice monthly during the second summer, in addition to sprinkler watering. Plants grown in clay soil need less frequent watering than those in sandy soil. Apply at least 2 gallons of water per inch of trunk caliper at each watering.
Deep soak all trees and shrubs prior to the onset of winter. Monthly deep soaking of trees and shrubs during winter is necessary unless there is frequent snow or rain.
Glover nursery does not recommend staking a tree unless placed where severe winds will affect the ability of the tree to stand upright. Staking deters the ability for the roots to properly develop and support the tree. In the case that staking is needed, the stake should be placed into the wind, and loosely tied around the trunk. The trunk must have some ability to move or it will be damaged or even break.