January / February – Gardening Tips

"Every gardener knows that under the cloak of winter lies a miracle... a seed waiting to sprout, a bulb opening to the light, a bud straining to unfurl. And the anticipation nurtures our dream."
- Barbara Winkler

Force a winter bouquet with branches of Forsythia, Lilac, Pussy Willow, Peach, Pear or Apple by cutting a small stem on a severe angle and putting them into water. Store them in a cool location and spray with water until they start to bud out and then bring them into a warm room. Don't forget to change the water every few days.

Remember to check stored bulbs like begonias, cannas and callas to make sure that they are still firm. Throw out any bulb that is mushy or moldy. If the bulbs are getting too dry you may need to moisten the storage medium.

Peruse those plant catalogues for plants and ideas you may want to incorporate into your planting beds. Order seeds or plugs early if they need to be started early indoors and to get the best selection.

Tree Care:

Prune shade trees at the end of February. You can also prune apples and pears. This web-site has good pruning information.
Systemic borer controls should be applied at the end of February.

"February is merely as long as is needed to pass the time until March." - Dr. J. R. Stockton

Flower and Shrub Beds:

Keep heavy snow loads brushed off shrubs to prevent breakage. Small amounts of snow on evergreen shrubs can protect them from cold drying winter temperatures.

"There seems to be so much more winter than we need this year." - Kathleen Norris

Ponds:

Check heaters and aerators often to make sure that they are working properly. Ponds must have a hole in the ice to release the noxious gases that form from decomposing matter in the pond.
Check to make sure that ice dams are not forming on waterfalls or streams that might divert the water over the liner.

Lawn:

Stay off dormant frozen lawn to protect the plant crowns from breakage.

Why, what's the matter, That you have such a February face, So full of frost, of storm and cloudiness?" - William Shakespeare, Much Ado About Nothing

For additional information the Utah State Extension Service web site is very helpful.

March / April – Spring Gardening Tips

Early spring is an exciting time when we are itching to be out in our yards and tending to our gardens. Since it is usually a bit too early to really do a lot outdoors, we would suggest that you take some time to plan your vegetable garden or design flowerbeds. Starting a gardening journal is also fun and can be very useful in future years as a resource for what worked and what did not. It is also helpful to keep track of what plants were used and how things were laid out.

While the weather is still questionable it is a good idea to clean, sharpen or replace hand tools. Service power equipment and sharpen lawn mower blades. Organize tool sheds and storage areas.

As the weather improves here is a list of spring gardening tips.

Tree Care:

Peaches, plums, cherries and apricot should be pruned in early March. Prune any other fruit trees that were not done in February.
Finish any shade tree pruning not completed in February.
Apply horticulture oil to fruit trees, shade trees and shrubs to help control insects such as aphids, scale and mites. Dormant disease control can be used with oil sprays on fruit trees at this time.
Systemic borer control can be applied to shade trees in early March. Use especially on Locust, Ash, Poplar, Aspen, Flowering Cherry, Willows and Honeylocust.
Spray for Aspen Leaf Spot at the first sign of green on the leaf buds.
Spray for Fire Blight when pear and crabapples are in bloom.
Remove all winter tree wraps to avoid over heating of tree bark.
Fertilize shade and fruit trees. Some trees may need an application of iron in March and then again in May.
Deep soak trees and shrubs if the winter and spring have been dry.

Flower and Shrub Beds:

Remove winter mulch from around perennials and roses.
Rake out debris from flower and shrub beds.
Move shrubs, if necessary, before they start to bud.
Compost can be added to flower beds if the soil has dried out enough. Soil should crumble when squeezed in your palm and then released. Working the soil when it is too wet causes compaction and should be avoided.
Fertilize shrubs and perennials. Some shrubs may need an application of iron in March and then again in May.
Systemic insect controls can be applied to shrubs and perennials.
Summer flowering shrubs like potentilla and many spireas can be pruned at the end of March or early April. Spring flowering shrubs like forsythia and lilac should be pruned as the blooms start to fade.
Prune roses when the leaf buds start to swell.
Cut back summer flowering perennials and prune any dead leaves on evergreen perennials.
Cut back ornamental grasses to about 6”.
Divide or move perennials.
Start begonias, dahlias and other tubers indoors for earlier blooms.
Keep weeds in check by regular weeding before they take and start to spread.
Look for and control insect infestations before they become a problem. Consider using biological controls before other harsher chemical treatments.

Ponds:

Begin your pond clean up and add beneficial bacteria.
Divide and fertilize pond lilies as they start to show signs of new growth.

Lawn:

Rake lawn to remove winter debris.
Aerate lawn.
Check sprinkler system before fertilizing your lawn, make repairs as necessary.
Apply preemergent and start fertilizing at the end of March.
Over seed around April 15. Do not use a preemergent if you intend to over seed your lawn.
Usually you should not need to water your lawn in March or April unless you are watering in fertilizer. If the lawn seems dry water every two weeks.

May / June – Gardening Tips

For a Vegetable Garden Planning Guide see the Vegetable Plants page on this web site.

Keep using your gardening journal-your notes will come in handy for next year.

Don't forget Mother's Day; any mother would love a beautiful hanging basket or a pot of colorful flowers.

April woke us up and May is a feast for our senses, we are ready to go. There still could be some cold nights but warm days are here, everything is alive and there is a lot to do. June ushers in summer and our lives turn to outdoors, it is the best time for gardening and enjoying nature at it's best.

Remember to clean up and repair bird feeders and birdbaths. Repair and fix garden ornaments. Add a water feature to your garden; running water is so soothing.

Tree Care:

Treat fruit and shade trees at the first sign of aphids. Use organic treatment when possible.
Treat apples for coddling moth starting in mid-May.
After the natural fruit drop, thin the fruit on pears, peaches, apples, and other fruit trees as necessary.
Watch for and control powdery mildew on apple, apricots, cherries, peaches, nectarine, grapes, peas, roses and euonymus.

Flower and Shrub Beds:

On cold nights in early May remember to cover tender annuals with newspaper to protect from frost.
Plant annuals after the last frost date. Usually around May 15 in northern Utah. Keep dead blooms off annuals and perennials to keep them bushy, full and blooming.
Summer flowering tubers like cannas, begonia, and dahlias can be safely set out by mid-May.
Plant color bowls and hanging baskets. Fertilize every two weeks.
Treat pruned rose tips for cane borer.
Treat for raspberry cane borer.
Cut the dead flowers heads off spring flowering bulbs; do not cut off leaves until the foliage has turned brown.
Prune spring flowering shrubs when they have finished blooming.
Keep using snail baits to keep slugs and snails under control.
Keep weeds in check-control before they set seed.
Apply plant supports to newly emerging perennials and annuals that tend to flop over. Support them before they grow tall enough to fall over.
Look out for pests such as aphids and red spider mites in your garden use organic controls when possible. Sometimes a good blast from the hose will dislodge pests.
Pinch candles on conifers to control growth. This is also a great time to prune or shear junipers and arborvitae.

Ponds:

Add floating plants like water hyacinth and water lettuce to your pond at the end of May.
As the temperature rises keep adding beneficial bacteria to your pond.

Lawn:

On May 1st turn on your sprinklers.
Start watering lawns. Approx. 1" every 5 days or a half an inch every 3 days. In mid June when the weather warms the grass will need approx. 3/4" every 3 days.
Control broad leaf weeds in the lawn
Aerate lawns if you did not do so earlier.
Fertilize lawn every 30 to 90 days. Do not over fertilize.
Apply iron to lawn.
Apply insecticides to lawn if necessary.
Watch for lawn diseases.
As the weather warms-keep the lawn mowed between 2" to 3".
This is a useful link for lawn care.

For additional information the Utah State Extension Service web site is very helpful.

July / August – Gardening Tips

For a Vegetable Garden Planning Guide see the Vegetable Plants page on this web site.

Keep using your gardening journal-your notes will come in handy for next year.

Summer is in full swing! Our gardens are taking shape and looking great, we can finally really enjoy the benefits of our hard work.

Summer annuals and perennials are looking nice and make terrific bouquets, make one for a special neighbor.

When you cut your flowers for your arrangements do so in the early morning hours when the temperature is cooler. Take a bucket of water with you to the garden rather than a basket-this will preserve the flowers better. Cut the flower stems on an angle so that there is more surface area to absorb water.

Tree Care:

Remove water sprouts from fruit trees.
Control peach twig bores on peaches, nectarine, cherry and apricots with Spinosad.
Continue codling moth controls on apples and pears.
Watch for red spider mite. If you suspect that you may have spider mites you can fleck a branch or leaf onto a white paper, look carefully to see if any of the specks move. Consider using a hard spray of water to knock them back, dormant oil or organic insecticides.
Watch for other insect and disease invasion. Powdery mildew can be a problem when the temperatures get warm.
Deep soak established tree once or twice a month.

Flower and Shrub Beds:

Keep faded flowers off roses to promote re-blooming.
Keep up on the weeding; don’t let weeds go to seed.
Watch for insect invasions. Use earth friendly insecticides.
Keep spent blooms off annuals and perennials. Fertilize and cut back annuals to promote blooming.
Water in the early morning hours so excess water does not sit on leaves, which could promote disease.
Hanging baskets and planters may need some sprucing up, cut back over grown plants and replace spent plants.
Hanging baskets and planters may need extra water in the summer heat, check them in the morning and evening.
Cut back Garden Mums around the 4th of July.
Last fertilization on roses should be around August 15th.
Divide and transplant iris in August.

Ponds:

Fertilize pond plants.
Keep mosquitoes away from ponds. Keep water flowing and use mosquito tablets.

Lawn:

Fertilize your lawn as necessary.
Check sprinklers for damaged heads. Adjust watering for hotter temperatures.
Water your lawn about 3/4" every 3 days or 1/2" every 2 days.
Watch for patches in the lawn, which may be a sign of insects and disease. Treat if necessary.
Keep weeds in check.

For additional information the Utah State Extension Service web site is very helpful.

September / October – Gardening Tips

For a Vegetable Garden Planning Guide see the Vegetable Plants page on this web site.

We love September, it is starting to cool down and we can really make the most of the tail end of summer, working in the garden is a joy again.

Take some time to make some end of season notes in your garden journal, note what worked and what did not. You can save a lot of time and money by using a garden journal to help plan and prepare next year's garden. Take some time to notice the fall changes and take notes, this can help you as you make design changes or add new textures to your yard or garden.

In October take a drive to the canyon and enjoy the wonderful color changes - it is a feast for the soul.

Tree Care:

After leaf drop apply copper fungicides to fruit trees
Clean up the orchard and small fruiting plants. A clean orchard is essential for disease and pest control.
This is a great time to choose trees with great fall color.
Fall is an excellent time to plant trees since the weather is cooler, trees become less stressed and they start to establish good roots.
A 2"– 4" layer of mulch on top of newly planted trees will help protect them from the freezing and thawing that occurs during the winter. Do not put the mulch directly against the trunk of the tree as it can harbor insects and can rot the bark.
Young trees should be wrapped with white tree wrap for the winter to help prevent sunscald.
Fall is a good time to prune some trees although most pruning should wait until Spring. This link has a lot of helpful information.

Flower and Shrub Beds:

Purchase spring flowering bulbs early while there is a good selection, wait until the temperatures cool down to plant.
September has the best selection of Mums and Asters, this is also a great time to plant hardy annuals like Pansies, Snap Dragons, Ornamental Cabbage and Kale.
Dig out Gladiolus, Begonia, Cannas and Dahlias after the first hard frost. Let them dry out for a couple of weeks then dust with sulfur. Store in vermiculite in a cool dry place free from frost.
This is a great time to choose shrubs with good fall color.
Prepare new beds for the spring and add compost to existing gardens. A thick layer of compost can also help keep late fall and early spring weeds in check
Clean up and remove all diseased or insect ridden plants from the garden, this will cut down on problems in the spring.
Divide and move perennials.

Ponds:

Remove floating plants such as Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce and discard.
Remove tropical plants, store indoors or discard.
Stop fertilizing pond plants in the first part of September.
Clean out dead leaves and organic debris.
You may want to cover your pond with a net if you have a lot of trees, to prevent leaves from falling into the water.
Cut back pond plants as they go dormant and drop them to the deepest area of the pond where the water is less likely to freeze.
If you drain your pond or it tends to freeze solid you may want to move the hardy plants to a spot in your garden and bury them in the soil or compost.

Lawn:

This is a good time to top dress your lawn with good compost.
Aerate your lawn if it was not done in the spring or if you are going to spread compost on it in the fall.
Clean up fallen leaves and debris to help prevent disease problems.
Apply weed killers as necessary to control broadleaf weeds. Spray field bindweed (morning glory) right before the first freeze.
Fall is a good time to put on preemergent to help prevent annual weeds.
Fertilize with a slow release fertilizer or Winterizer.
In Sept. when the weather is still warm the grass will need to be watered approx. 3/4" every 4 to 6 days. In Oct. when the weather is cool water 3/4" every 6 to 9 days.

For additional information the Utah State Extension Service web site is very helpful.

November / December – Gardening Tips

It's time to put the toys away, gardening season is about over. Drain the hoses and put them away. The fuel in power equipment should be used up or drained; change the spark plugs and sharpen blades. Clean, oil and sharpen hand tools. Store all tools indoors to keep them from rusting.

Order seed catalogues and review your gardening journal.

Tree Care:

Trees and shrubs, especially evergreens, should be watered heavily going into winter and should be watered during periods of winter drought. Also deep soak any plants that may be in the rain shadow of other plants or buildings.
Apply anti-transpirant, such as Wilt Pruf, to evergreen trees and shrubs to prevent moisture loss during drying winter weather.

Flower and Shrub Beds:

Wrap evergreens shrubs like arborvitae and upright junipers to protect them from breaking and bending with a heavy snow load. Burlap tree wrap or jute twine work well for this.
Prevent salt damage to trees and shrubs by using ice melter substitutes like sand or fertilizer.
Plant your bulbs if you have not had a chance to do so.
Clean up all debris and leaves around roses. Dispose of leaves if your roses had any disease problems. Do not compost diseased leaves.
Mulch roses to protect the graft union during the cold winter months.
Roses should be pruned if they are over-grown and are vulnerable to breakage from snow load. However your heavy pruning should be done in the spring when the leaf buds start to swell.
If you have shrubs or trees that need to be moved this would be the best time to do so.

Ponds:

Stop feeding fish if you haven't already.
Cut back aquatic plant leaves if you haven't already.
Remove any organic debris that falls into your pond, like leaves and twigs.

Lawn:

To help prevent disease, keep leaves raked off the lawn and mow the lawn short for the winter.

For additional information the Utah State Extension Service web site is very helpful.

Happy Holidays from the plant geeks at Glover Nursery.